Tuesday, July 27, 2010

North to Alaska 2010

Denali National Park

We have left Fairbanks and are now heading for Denali National Park and Preserve. This park was established in 1917 as Mount McKinley National Park, designated a park and preserve - and renamed Denali - in 1980. Denali "the High One" is what the Athabascan Indians of the region called it. In 1896 a prospector, named the mountain for presidential nominee William McKinley of Ohio, although McKinley had no connection with Alaska. Protests that the mountain be returned to its original name, Denali, ensued almost at once. But it was not until the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Ace of 1980 changed the park's status and name that the Alaska Board of Geographic Names changed the name back to Denali. The 1980 legislation also enlarged the park from 2 million acres to its present 6 million acres to protect Mount McKinley on all sides and to preserve the habitat of area wildlife.

The general public is prohibited from traveling by personal vehicle more than 30 miles into the park itself. This is at the Teklanika Rest Stop and the campground that is there at that mile marker. Once you are at the campground, you may only go back out once. If you leave the campground you lose your site. This is done to protect the land and wildlife. There are shuttle buses that run back and forth from various points in the park but you can only go forward.

We didn't get into the park the day we got there as they were full in all three campgrounds that take big RV's so we camped about 15 miles south in a pull-out along side the Nenana River. The view was great and although there was some traffic noise it wasn't too bad.





On Saturday we moved to the Riley Campground in the park for 3 nights. We had also made reservations on the shuttle bus - the shortest loop - that goes 59 miles back into the park to Toklat River. We chose to do the 5:00 pm shuttle - 3 hours out and 2.5 hours back - as there is always wildlife out at dusk. Oops - forgot - there isn't any dusk this time of year but I don't think the wildlife knows that! We took the opportunity to check out the commercial area just outside the park. What a congested area. Lots of motels, hotels, restaurants and tourist trap shops. We did go into a couple of them and what passes for a grocery store but being what this area is, the prices were sky high and we passed on any purchases. Back in the park we went to the Wilderness Access Center - this is where you get your bus to go into the park - and they also have things you can purchase. This center is operated by a concessionaire as are the campground positions other than the camp hosts. From there we headed to the parks visitor's center - which is operated by the national park system. They have a wonderful display with lots of information about the terrain, animals and life in the park.

Back at the campground we packed some snacks and drinks into a back pack just in case we had the munchies then headed back to the Wilderness Access Center to catch the bus. We were the only ones doing the tour tonight. There were 6 young people that were hitching a ride to a campground for tenting and that was the extent of passengers. Once we dropped them off we had a personal tour. The bus driver was a young man named Michael, that was very personable and knowledgeable about the area and animals. On the way out to Toklat River we spotted a wolf crossing the road, some Dall sheep and a moose. We also passed by a mother grizzly with 2 cubs some distance from the road. Hopefully they will be there when we get back. The "tundra" that we were traveling through wasn't anything like what we expected. We thought we would be going through mountains and passes, and we did do some of that, but for the most part it was mostly alpine with shallow hills and lots of foraging grass, some pine trees where the moose frequent along with some moose ponds. An area called Polychrome Pass was a little nerve wracking and there is no way I would want to pull an RV through that area - and this is past the 30 mile point, in fact, it is at the end of the 60 miles that we paid to see. Steep mountains on one side and steep mountains going down on the other with a one way road that handles two way traffic. Mike, driving the bus did an excellent job both going and coming back. Coming back the grizzly and cubs were closer to the road and we stopped and watched for some time. The cubs were doing the cub thing - fighting, running at each other, tumbling and not paying much attention to mom who was off a little bit munching on the grass and plants. When the cubs got tired of rough housing they both went over to mom, nudged her and simultaneously all three of them walked up a slight knoll where she laid down, rolled over and allowed the cubs to nurse. This was awesome to see - and amazing as the cubs were almost as big as she was. The bus driver guessed they were probably 2 years old so this would be there last year with the mother. We saw more moose and sheep on the way back and the wildlife total was 3 grizzlies, 1 wolf, 21 Dall sheep and 2 moose. Not too bad for a day and a great way to celebrate our 46th anniversary.

The next morning, Ken had a close encounter with a moose and calf at the bathroom area. He said they were just walking through the campground and camp sites like they owned the place - and they probably were there first! More stuff to see in the park today - another trip to the visitor's center and to the National Park Sled Dog demonstration. The rangers use sleds during the winter to traverse the park and breed their own sled dogs. They had a nice display and all of the dogs were in there areas wanting attention from the visitors. Once the "visiting" was done, the sled was brought out and the mushers got the dogs ready to go. What a commotion - each dog barking and yipping like kids wanting to be picked first. Once the team was in harness they quieted down. The musher got on the back of the sled runners, released the team and away they went. There is a small gravel trail that they follow and they really move fast. It was fun to watch, although I would have liked to be the one on the sled. I have always wanted to do a sled dog vacation but couldn't convince Ken it was the trip to take.

Later that night, we went for a ride out to Savage River Flats. This is at mile 15 and as far as one can go in their own private vehicle. We saw 6 moose, one of which was a calf, Caribou, and of course the ever present Dall Sheep. We took a hike on the River Loop at Savage River - which was a mountain vista walk through the wildflowers, rocks, streams and small hills that line the river and on the way back to the campground we were able to see the bottom half of Denali. They say only 30 to 40 percent of the people coming to the area are able to see the mountain. We hope at some point we will be able to see the entire mountain. It was still beautiful - brilliant white with the sun shining on the snow.


Tomorrow we will be leaving the park and heading further south towards Anchorage. Would have liked to stay longer but hopefully we will be able to come back to Denali before leaving Alaska.

Some more views of Denali:
































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